Figure-of-Eight
The Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all
climbing knots. It is easy to tie, easy to undo after a load has been
applied, and puts the least stress on the rope when tied tight. It can
be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end, it should be
secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot from un-doing
itself.
There are generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight knot. The
first method is used when a piece of equipment is clipped into the
loop, the second when the knot is used to tie into something, for
example, a climbing harness.
Figure-of-Eight
loop
Figure-of-Eight
re-threaded
The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a harness, and
is just a case of making a figure-of-eight on the single rope, looping
through the harness, and following the knot back through itself.
Bowline
The bowline is easy to adjust and untie. Beware, though, that if tied
incorrectly in can be unsafe. You should really tie a stopper knot in
the loop with the loose end to prevent it from pulling through.
Clove
Hitch
The clove hitch is easily adjusted when place, but is not a
particularly strong knot. If one side of the knot is to be loaded,
place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to be loaded, place
the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading, as it may run if
loaded when loose.
Highwayman's
Hitch
This knot can bear one's weight on one strand of the rope and can be
untied by just pulling on the other strand. End 'B' is the load-bearing
end. NOT RECOMMENDED for climbing, but excellent for robbing
stagecoaches, when you want to get away quick with your rope.
Fisherman's
Knot
Probably the simplest knot for joining two ends of rope. Consists of
two overhand knots.
Double
Fisherman's Knot
Better than the Fisherman's Knot, this uses two double overhand knots.
Good knot, as it can be difficult to untie. Check regularly for the
loose ends getting shorter, and if so, re-tie. Tighten with body
weight.
Lark's
Foot
Quick knot, but weak. Best avoided.
Overhand
Knot
Probably the simplest knot in existence. Usually used as a stopper
knot, but a double overhand is preferable.
Double
Overhand Knot
Better as a stopper knot than the Overhand, as it is less likely to
pull through.
Overhand
Loop
This is the simplest way to create a closed loop in the middle of a
rope. Difficult to untie after loading.
Sheet
Bend
Occasionaly used to join the ends of ropes, may be adjusted easily, but
can also come undone easily.
Tape
Knot
Usually used for joing the ends of tapes or slings. Can work loose
sometimes, so check regularly, and re-tie if the ends are getting
shorter. Tighten with body weight before use.
Ascending
Knots
Five
ascending knots are shown in all, each have their advantages and
disadvantages. Try them all out, and see which you prefer.
Prusik
Loop
The
Kleimheist
The
Hedden Knot, also known as Kreutzklem
First
published in 1960 in Summit Magazine. In 1964, the name Kreutzklem was
attached to it by someone in the German mountain troops who was shown
it by an officer serving in the US Air Force. The Kreutzklem name
(cross-clamp) was applied because the original inventor (Chet Hedden)
got lost somewhere along the way when it was shown to different people
in Europe.
The
French Prusik
The
Bachmann
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