Panhine Navara, Navari Climb
On 25th Jan Early morning we all reached Pahine. Another team from Nashik joined us at pahine. It took one hr. to reach the base of the Paine Navara-Navari Pinnacle from the Village. We had planned to divide the team in two & attempt both the pinnacles. I was the lead climber for the Navara & Kaivalya was leading Navari. The Navara team members were Harshal, Kiran, Milind while Navari team members were Bhushan, Chetan both from Nashik.
Navari climbing started first then the Navara. Deepak was the Climbing Manager for Navara. We started Navara climb at around 12:15pm from the col of Navara-Navari while Navari climbing starts from the col between Navari & connect pinnacle Sasra. It was one of the unique experience to climb Navari using the bridging technique till the choke stone & difficult climb further. The bolt/peg/pitton condition at Navari is worst. Both Bhushan & Kaivalya explored the route till choke stone alternatively tackling the bridging as well the scree face. They climbed the half way & decided to return back to help Navara team to make it success. But unfortunately it didn't happened & The Navara team also return back from the half way hoping for the best on the next day that is 26th Jan.
On the Navara face first 30 ft climb is free climb where one can anchor the rope to the small tree. The next 20 ft free climb & then the critical upward traverse on right side ascending till the first ledge. The small ledge on the traverse one has to take care a lot since it has little overhang. Previous climbers (Chetan from Nashik) has bolted a peg on the traverse on the foot hold of the traverse where one can fixed the rope for anchoring. On the ledge one person can stand comfortably. I asked the second man to come up till this ledge & support me for further climb.
Due to some rope management problem Harshal has to climbed down & re-climb till the ledge where I was waiting for the second man support. It was almost wastage of 90 min. in the process which drained us unnecessarily. Later the overhang patch was too much for me & requested Harshal to Lead the overhang patch thinking his height will be an added advantage. Though Harshal climbed the patch we were too much tired in the process. Also Milind came to the ledge where we reached to support us by 4:30pm. Kaivalya too was supporting us from the Navari's col face. Finally I decided to move down & try the next day with fresh mind & energy. We return back to the Base at Pahine village for the rest.
The trekking team yet had not been reached from the Harihar fort due to problem with our vehicle (Sumo).
The next day 26th Jan 2004 by 9:30am we all were at the base of the pinnacle. We reached till the last climbed patch by zoomarring. Then proceeded further climb. The first climb was critical where we were supposed to do the traverse. IT took time but due to support of kV I could able to do it where a good condition bolt exist. Further climb of another 30 ft towards right was easy. Another bolt one can find on this patch where 2 person can stand comfortably. Here lies the last difficult patch. I called the second man kV till this ledge to support me further climb. The overhang over here was too much for me. I tried using eterrior first then tried to climb on KV's sholder (like Dahihandi) to get hold of another rock hold which also was unsuccessful. AT one time I thought of give up & asked KV to tackle this patch but kV support me to fight. So with help of etterior & back support from KV I could able to reached a small tree firm base. From here the rock patch of 10 feet one has to pull his/her body against the exposure at back side. While doing this move unfortunately One of the left rock hand hold came out & I could able to manage the situation. But the moment when the rock hand hold came out I was in tense mood & till I get the proper foot hold. I spent some time to relax from this situation & then moved further tackling from the cactus & loose scree till the summate. It was 2:13pm exactly I was on top. As per my watch the height shown here is 3140ft.
I spent almost 90 min alone on the summate waiting for other members to greet me & vice versa. IT was my seventh experience. Kiran & Milind's Second experience. It was Republic Day Exploration 2004. I did opened up the Tricolor on the summate to salute in a different manner.
By 4:30pm all were on top. Since it was late we could not able to finish the windup in time. kV & Milind were on the face till dark where the child wind were making the rock cold & also the climbers. Fortunately we were equipped with head torch by which Kaivalya did manage to rappel down successfully with Milind. It was new experience for Milind but usual to kV The wind up exercise happened by 9:00pm. The rest of the team had already sent down to complete further movement at our base. It was a grate help from Nashik team specially Bushan on that day to help us for wind up. We reached the base by 10:00pm. Sorted the equipment & return back to Mumbai the next day via Ghoti road.
I am verymuch thankful to Rajesh Gadgil & Sahyagiri for the equipment as well Nandu Chavan for the timely help for the equipment help.