The Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all
climbing knots. It is easy to tie, easy to undo after a load has been
applied, and puts the least stress on the rope when tied tight. It can
be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end, it should be
secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot from un-doing
There are generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight knot. The
first method is used when a piece of equipment is clipped into the
loop, the second when the knot is used to tie into something, for
example, a climbing harness.
The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a harness, and
is just a case of making a figure-of-eight on the single rope, looping
through the harness, and following the knot back through itself.
The bowline is easy to adjust and untie. Beware, though, that if tied
incorrectly in can be unsafe. You should really tie a stopper knot in
the loop with the loose end to prevent it from pulling through.
The clove hitch is easily adjusted when place, but is not a
particularly strong knot. If one side of the knot is to be loaded,
place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to be loaded, place
the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading, as it may run if
loaded when loose.
This knot can bear one's weight on one strand of the rope and can be
untied by just pulling on the other strand. End 'B' is the load-bearing
end. NOT RECOMMENDED for climbing, but excellent for robbing
stagecoaches, when you want to get away quick with your rope.
Probably the simplest knot for joining two ends of rope. Consists of
two overhand knots.
Better than the Fisherman's Knot, this uses two double overhand knots.
Good knot, as it can be difficult to untie. Check regularly for the
loose ends getting shorter, and if so, re-tie. Tighten with body
Quick knot, but weak. Best avoided.
Probably the simplest knot in existence. Usually used as a stopper
knot, but a double overhand is preferable.
Better as a stopper knot than the Overhand, as it is less likely to
This is the simplest way to create a closed loop in the middle of a
rope. Difficult to untie after loading.
Occasionaly used to join the ends of ropes, may be adjusted easily, but
can also come undone easily.
Usually used for joing the ends of tapes or slings. Can work loose
sometimes, so check regularly, and re-tie if the ends are getting
shorter. Tighten with body weight before use.
ascending knots are shown in all, each have their advantages and
disadvantages. Try them all out, and see which you prefer.
Hedden Knot, also known as Kreutzklem
published in 1960 in Summit Magazine. In 1964, the name Kreutzklem was
attached to it by someone in the German mountain troops who was shown
it by an officer serving in the US Air Force. The Kreutzklem name
(cross-clamp) was applied because the original inventor (Chet Hedden)
got lost somewhere along the way when it was shown to different people